DESIGNERHUNTER.COM

Structural and elegant, Yeojin Bae delivers a collection for summer that plays with proportion and shape. Inspired by post modernist architect Frank Gehry and a futuristic sensibility, Bae pits balloon silhouettes against hourglass figures.

Using the balloon as a starting point, Bae designed the inverse; figure hugging shapes that mould to the waist and hips. Circular shapes that sculpt the body. The short sleeve tuxedo jacket nips in at the waist and emphasises the shoulders with stepped circular sleeves. Bae works circular armholes against cinched waists; silk shifts are finished with gaping gathered sleeves that flash glimpses of skin. Asymmetric cutaways expose sexy shoulders, and are balanced with floor skimming lengths.

The designer's expert tailoring allows for suiting that is striking and modern. Clean lines are kept in a straight 7/8 pant and blazer that sits at the high hip. The suiting mini skirt juxtaposes volume with length, bagging out slightly at the waist and falling short on the thigh. This season's trench in cement grey polished cotton features an exaggerated bell sleeve blooming out of a shirred shoulder panel.

Fabrications are heavy versus light. Rounded shapes are embraced in featherweight silks that fall into flattering feminine forms; voluminous one-shoulder mini-dresses blouson into an elasticised hem. This lightness is juxtaposed with double weight silk to give structure. Weightless polished cottons and textural crepe silk work together to deliver Bae's architectural feel.

Trims are kept minimal and linear. Zig Zag contrast raffia trims the elongated sleeveless tunic. Simple plaited detail maintains the theme on chic silk cami's and long-sleeved tops. Yeojin Bae's first foray into accessories for the label is a cinched leather and stretch netting belt, which expertly melds the ideas of simple embellishment and lines.

Colours are clean and understated. Indigo, black, porcelain and pale grey are highlighted with a shock of cobalt or soft pink. Prints are kept bold and oversized in rich flat colours that intensify against the collections' paired-back colour palette. The oversized vintage leaf print works to exaggerate free silhouettes.

Yeojin Bae strives to create a comprehensive wardrobe for women today with each collection. This summer, angular lines work with rounded shapes and clean detailing to create a look that is modern and effortless.

Yeojin Bae's summer collection is available from the Yeojin Bae concept showroom in Melbourne and selected boutiques and Myer stores from August 2008.